Bandar Seri Begawan is the capital of Brunei and the country’s only real population centre. It is the centre of Brunei’s commerce and government but retains a somewhat sleepy, laid-back feel. The town lines the banks of the Brunei River and houses some of the country’s most important landmarks. Bandar Seri Begawan is characterised by a juxtaposition of the modern – as exemplified by its palaces, mosques and malls – with more traditional elements such as Malay houses built on stilts. For the visitor the highlights of Bandar Seri Begawan are the Malay Water Village at Kampung Ayer; the city’s impressive collection of mosques, including the stunning Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque; and the city’s peaceful, laid-back feel and friendly residents.